Has Kohl's caught the consumer trade-down bug?

The department store chain could be suffering from the same worrying trend as JC Penney: shoppers downgrading to discount retailers.

By Minyanville Jun 21, 2012 4:31PM
JC Penney (JCP) has lost sales in its changeover to an everyday low-pricing strategy, but those customers haven't moved disproportionately to Kohl's (KSS), its most direct competitor.

I was surprised since, as a rule, dissatisfied department store customers generally switch to another department store. Instead, JC Penney customers have dropped out of the category altogether and traded down to discount stores.

Having looked more closely at Kohl's, I believe the retailer is suffering from the same extreme consumer trade-down as J.C. Penney.

Kohl's reported flat comparable-store sales in its recent quarter. Average transaction value was up 1.6%, with pricing up 4.9%, and units per transaction were down 3.3%. Traffic decreased 1.4%. So Penney's sales shortfall in the past quarter did not help Kohl's but seems to have gone disproportionately to discounters Wal-Mart (WMT), Target (TGT) and Costco (COST), in that order. Total inventory was up 7% on a 2% sales increase.

Management had projected gross margin to be down 160 basis points but dropped 220. This was against a backdrop of private and exclusive brands being up 50% to 53% last year to this year and a continuing launch of higher-priced exclusive brands rather than less expensive private-label offerings. Management attributed the additional gross-margin decline to the depth of promotional markdowns.

Part of the reason given for the poor total unit sales number was that the company needed more inventory at opening price points, which are heavily private-label offerings. Executives said they were seeing a lot of price elasticity on some items.

Remodelings were cut by 50%. Gross-margin guidance was for 200-250 bps of decline in the second quarter.

All of the above leads me to believe that Kohl's is going to continue to suffer from more economically strapped consumers. I can only believe consumers are shifting purchases out of Kohl's to Wal-Mart, Target and Costco, only at a slower rate than than seen at Penney, where the exodus was hastened by a disastrous pricing strategy that failed upon roll-out, costing the president his job.

Gross margin has reached a historical high of around 38%, up 200 bps over the past few years, with the addition of many exclusive brands. The pace of these roll-outs can probably not be sustained, as consumers look to be moving more to less expensive private labels. Though management is guiding to only a 70-basis-point decline in gross margin for the year, the declines seen in the past two quarters (and the bearish pricing comments made by management) point to questions about the company's ability to maintain a department store's typical high operating margin in the 11% range.

So while the stock looks cheap at $45, discounting essentially no earnings-per-share growth at all, the stock market does not believe returns will hold. I do not believe they will hold either. 

A 2% decline in operating margin means that the stock discounts a 3% growth rate for per-share earnings over five years. A 3% decline in operating margins implies a 6% growth rate for EPS over the same period to justify $45. My guess is that the average department store over the next five years will have a 4% to 5% growth rate. So the stock looks to be fairly valued, if you believe the profitability hits of this magnitude.

More from Minyanville
46Comments
Jun 22, 2012 12:21PM
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When you charge 30 bucks for a 4 pack of boxers, what do you expect, full stores?
Jun 22, 2012 12:21PM
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When you charge 30 bucks for a 4 pack of boxers, what do you expect, full stores?
Jun 22, 2012 11:57AM
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I like Kohls store...

But our family no longer has the money to spend  in stores  like that..

All our money is going to pay for the basics....food, gas for car, utilites, rent...

Could afford those type things before being laid off and now working

part time jobs for half the pay....

Jun 22, 2012 11:57AM
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I like Kohl's yes the prices are high but i only buy when things are on sale. I would like to see them drop there prices it wouldn't hurt them. It would be better then closing there stores.
Jun 22, 2012 11:43AM
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I love Kohl's,  I shop when they have the Kohl's cash and the 30% coupons. I buy cloths and housewares there consistenly. I would much rather buy at Kohl's then JCP. The stores always seem to be busy with customers.
Jun 22, 2012 11:41AM
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headline should be 'everything in trouble nobody has any money anymore due to success of corpo gov'
Jun 22, 2012 11:24AM
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Walmart's clothes are crap.  At least for men.  I don't know who would want to buy them there.  I'll gladly pay a little more for something from a more decent store.
Jun 22, 2012 11:17AM
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I've never cared for Kohl's, tried a couple of shopping trips, nothing was a "good buy", and I'm an avid shopper, usually once or twice a week, and I'm in the demographic that is spending my money, not some 18 year old spending momma's and daddy's credit card.  I've noticed that Macy, Dillard, Belk, NY&C, Target and Off Broadway shoes are getting all my spendable income lately.  I've not had a charge from JCP or Kohls in over 5 years.  The inventory of both stores does not attact me, my daughter, my sister, nor my niece.  So none of us EVER even bothers with JCP or Kohls anymore.  Too bad Khols, you lost quite a bit of sales by trying to cater to the WRONG shoppers.

Jun 22, 2012 10:56AM
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I went w/my son to buy him shoes he's an adult he saw 2 kind he wanted on display at a Milwaukee store and they were not in stock. So he settled on a pair and we went to a large mall sport store and bought another pair. So tough beans Kohl's you lost a sale.
Jun 22, 2012 10:48AM
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I like Kohl's, especially for activewear, sneakers, etc.  But I've noticed lately that their private label brands -- like Vera Wang and Jennifer Lopez -- are catering to a demographic that is much younger than the average Kohl's shopper.  The 18-year-old who's carrying a Coach bag isn't shopping at Kohl's!  The management of these stores all make the same mistake: they think they have to be hip and trendy but they do so at the expense of their core customers.  Every analyst is blaming the economy for the retail slowdown, but I'm convinced the truth is that at least 50% of the problem is due to poor or no selection of merchandise for shoppers over 30. 
Jun 22, 2012 10:03AM
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Kohl's stores are junky format....you cannot find things the racks are so full. I find they have similar clothes to JC Penneys.....junk from other parts of the world that when you wash it falls apart or fades. I agree with a previous poster....they up prices then put on sale and the prices are still too high. The Kohls near me has very little traffic in it these days.
Jun 21, 2012 9:42PM
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I can understand how Kohl's would have a major problem trying to keep customers. I shop there frequently but when they put things on sale, such as a good polo shirt and it has a price tag of $45.00 that's a ridiculous price. So they put it on sale and knock 30% off the price for the shirt and it's still higher than it should be. I for one liked the pricing of JCPenney's because they put the actual price it should sell for and it was still lower than Kohl's for the same shirt that Kohl's had on sale. It seems like Kohl's puts their own price tags on and the price is jacked up approx. 50%.
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